Sunset Cruise - Franconia Ridge 9/7 2009

SUNSET CRUISE

Well, it had been quite a week of mountain time. The traverse on Friday, Chocorua on Sunday and now it was Monday - it was time to do the ridge. Much like Katahdin, it's a hike you should do at least once a year. It's stunning the entire way, not too long and a huge payoff. The plan was to climb up the Falling Waters trail, 3.2 miles and 3000' feet of elevation gain to Little Haystack (4760') then along the treeless ridge for just under two miles, passing over the summit of Mt Lincoln (5089') and finally to Mt Lafayette (5260') then down the Old Bridle Path, past the Greenleaf Hut and back to the lot.

One of my early hikes was with my longtime friend - Brother Thomas. (He and I were the founding members of what became Jerks of Grass) We hiked the ridge together and the sun set as we reached the summit of Lafayette - and as we ate our food, the full moon unexpectedly rose behind us, completely lighting our way. We decided to go all the way BACK across the ridge and on to Mt Liberty. It was an epic journey in several respects, especially when we entered the scrub trees for the two miles from Haystack and Liberty and the moon gave out on us, just like our (only) flashlight. We carefully picked our way along, were dived bombed by several bats and finally slept wrapped in our nylon tent rainfly until the dawn and the dew woke us up.

Franconia Ridge - the goal for the day

Kinsmans and Cannon Cliff

It was almost almost 4:30pm when I arrived at the trailhead. The lot was still pretty full and many hikers were coming down the trail on this busy Labor Day. I was feeling lucky to have once again missed the crowds. I was starting late because sunset was at 7:13, and moonrise at 8:03. I hoped to reach Little Haystack at sunset, stroll across the ridge in the fading light and then enjoy the moonrise from Lafayette summit.

It was yet another perfect weather day. The trail follows the oddly named Dry Brook, passing by three waterfalls along the way. I believe this pic is Cloudland Falls. I took a moment to remember Shu Qin, a 28 year old tourist from China who tragically died in 2008 from a freak rockfall in this area. This story really struck me when I heard it - how tragic. Thousands of people: kids, families, etc. all pass by that very spot every year. It is the nature of the universe for random events to occur however and we must accept such things.

At the 1.6 mile point the trail crosses Dry Brook for the last time and begins to follow a long series of switchbacks. I heard the sound of several hikers singing together in French for some time before we finally passed. They were all smiles and I enjoyed their song, humming the melody to myself for quite a while afterward.

I passed the junction with the Shining Rock spur path after a good blast up the trail, it was a little over a mile and a half from the brook to treeline and I had decided not to stop until I reached the alpine zone sign. The alpine zone sign means "big views dead ahead" and always serves to re-energize me while hiking. The next thing I knew the view had opened up and I was on top of Little Haystack.

Welcome to the ridge

I checked my watch and I was WAY early... it had only taken an hour and a half to reach this point, which normally would be good, but today I had hoped to see the sunset/moonrise. The good news was that I could slow down and really enjoy the ridge walk and take lots of photos.

Mt Flume and Mt Liberty

View of Mount Lincoln Summit - Lafayette is hidden behind

You can see the majority of the NH 4000'+ peaks from here

Nice look across the Pemigewasset Wilderness

  I had the ridge to myself the entire way - after Haystack I saw zero hikers

The cloud which had formed over the summit of Lafayette was constantly swirling, growing and shrinking

 

 

Now the mists were blowing up from the valley and catching the pink light of the steadily fading sun - this is from the small sub-peak between Lincoln and Lafayette

South view from the summit

 Signage

Cairnage?

The sun was setting fast as I made my way down the west face of the mountain on the Old Bridle Path, headed toward Greenleaf Hut and treeline. I waited until I absolutely couldn't continue without my headlamp. After fishing it out of my pack I walked for another 90 seconds and was at the hut! I walked in on two naturalists giving a lecture to the few guests staying at the hut on the trees of the White Mountain Region which I found fascinating. I lingered for quite awhile as I filled my water and ate my cereal and milk I had brought for dinner.

 

You can see the reflection of the roof of the hut below

I made my descent by headlamp, down the Three Agonies - steep rocky sections of the Old Bridle Path named by hut croo members carrying 100lb pack boards of supplies. I knew the trail well and soon arrived at one of the overlooks and I the moon was threatening to rise over the ridge. I sat there for quite a while expecting the valley to light up any minute now, but it wasn't to be.

Did you guys know that Ashley Sucks? You've been warned.

Ahh another adventure comes to an end... I made the long familiar drive home. This trip was the culmination of a weekend of amazing views, perfect weather and great feelings. Life is what you make it - make it good!