Really? Again? Baxter Trip #3 - Doubletop 8/30 - 8/31 2009

THIRD TIME IS CHARMING

Having spent the night at Nesowadnehunk Campground on Thursday last week, the view of Doubletop was stuck in my mind all weekend as we played a couple shows Friday and Sunday and sadly Henryfest was rained out on Saturday. (Rain Date is Sept 20th!)

I was thinking about making the trek to Baxter after our show on Sunday, but got home and felt a little sleepy and thought better of it. I had checked the parks website and saw that there were one or two open lean-tos at Chimney Pond in October when I had some time off. A reservation at Chimney Pond (the beautiful pond at the base of Katahdin's dramatic cirque) is pretty hard to come by and you can only make reservations in person or by mail.

An hour later, it was clear I wouldn't be asleep anytime soon. I quickly packed my gear, stopped at 317 to make a nice strong americano and I was off. I always prefer to drive north at night, I had a new Sierra Hull CD "Secrets" to listen to (in the end it was a little to safe for my tastes) to pass a small fraction of the time.

Soon I was in Hermon and stopped at Dysart's to fuel up and have some food. I had an omelet and some crappy homefries, but they filled the void. Soon, I found myself taking the Medway exit for the third time this month and drove slowly toward the park entrance so as not to hit a moose. It takes about 4.5-5 hours to reach the park gate, it was almost 3am when I pulled over and took a nap close to the park gate. I dozed for an hour or so and then drove right up to the gate itself.

I have never been first in line before! It was about 4:45 before another car came and soon there were ten cars behind me. The gatehouse ranger arrived at 4:50, she said she'd need about ten minutes to get everything up and running. Once the lights were on I pulled up and she asked what my plans were for the day. I explained that I planned to hike Doubletop and wanted to stay at Nesowadnehunk tonight and that I also wanted to reserve the nights at Chimney Pond. She told me the office doesn't open until after 8am, but that I could track down a ranger somewhere and they could make the reservation for me as long as I was paying cash. I thought it was odd that I wouldn't be paying for my night at Nesowadnehunk right then and there at the gate, but it was early/late and I didn't think much of it. As I made my way down the almost 20 mile road to the campground, I realized that something wasn't right about that whole exchange - I looked at my window tag and yep - it was marked day use. Bah.

Once again the ride in was absolutely beautiful. As the first one in the park there wasn't a soul on the road. The sun was beginning to rise as I passed by my goal for the day, the 3,489 foot Doubletop Mountain. It is named for it's distinctive profile with two peaks, almost like a pup tent sagging in the rain. I was hoping for a good workout, so my plan was to start from the campground (the trail began 50' from my campsite) and follow the Doubletop Trail south over the two peaks and then down the south side, along the edges of a couple of ponds ending eight miles later at Kidney Pond. The wild card of the trip was to be the road walk back to the campground, another eight miles. Maybe I'd get a ride but then again maybe not. It was sure to be good exercise either way.

I was thrilled to arrive at the campground and be greeted by two moose! Momma Moose and Baby Moose were chilling out, enjoying some snacks from the bushes and I couldn't have been happier to see such an incredible sight.


I had my stuff ready to go, pack ready for the day hike and my camping gear in another bag so once I woke up I'd immediately hit the trail. There was no ranger on duty, the sign said he'd be around in the afternoon. I was a little concerned since:


A: I had to sleep now.
B: I had to start hiking as soon as I woke up in a few hours.
C: My tag was marked for day use and I had a multi-hour journey ahead of me.


I left a note for the ranger who would eventually arrive explaining my situation, along with a $20 to pay for tonight. I hoped it would all work out, it would be a bad thing to have my little tag in the "day use" slot at the gatehouse at the end of the day when they were preparing to close, they would likely search for me and I could very well be still walking up the road at that time.

I lingered on the bridge that crosses Nesowadnehunk Stream and marveled at the the sunrise. Nesowadnehunk (neh-sowd-neh-hunk) in Abenaki means "swift stream between the mountains". By this time it was almost 6:30am.  It was very cold and I headed for an unoccupied lean-to and fell asleep in about 5 minutes. When I awoke at a little after noon, the sky was still overcast but blue patches were opening up and the forecast was for a gorgeous afternoon and evening.

I'M WALKING, YES INDEED

I was feeing good and ready for the day's journey. I checked the map and saw a well segmented trail ahead - sort of flat for a mile, followed by a steep mile of climbing and then a final meandering mile to the North Peak. My water was full and I was ready to go, it was probably five minutes from the time I woke up to when my feet hit the trail.

The Doubletop Trail is my favorite kind of trail. When it's flat, it's flat and the footing is great. When it's time to climb it does so relentlessly! If I'm going to lift my leg a foot in the air every time, I'd just assume make some elevation with each step. It seemed like I had just started when I arrived at the crossing of the brook, the one mile mark. From here, it got steep in a hurry. Although I was really gasping for air at times, I was feeling great and didn't stop until I had climbed most of the shoulder of the mountain.

Here at the two mile point, the trail flattens out and there are occasional glimpses of the mountains on the other side of the stream - Mount OJI (apparently the rock slides on it's western flank used to spell out the letters O-J-I) Mount Coe, North and South Brother and The Owl.

Seeing the rocky ridge of North Brother made me remember climbing it mid-October day with my high school friend and original hiking buddy Andy.

A little history - warning, I feel a ramble coming on here:

Andy was a charter member of I.G.O.B - the Informal Gentleman's Outing Battalion a group of unlikely "hikers" (Myself, Andy, Bert, Adam, Tom and auxiliary member Joe) who had some wonderful misadventures including my first ever backpacking trip: Mount Chocorua in early March.

My buddy Bert told us about a cabin with a wood stove, we took the Champney Falls Trail which was a packed superhighway from a winter season of snowshoers. I had heard about layering so I had 3 chamois shirts on, my gloves were a giant pair of leather fireplace gloves. We arrived just below the summit cone at dusk in a whiteout and by some miracle found the way to Jim Liberty Cabin, soaked and frozen to the bone. We opened the door   to see the chimney and the empty hole where the stovepipe used to be connected 15 years ago, that last time Bert had been here. I froze my ass off in my 8lb Kmart sleeping bag with the plaid liner and the descent in the morning was down the opposite side, the side no one had been down all winter. It was a warm wet day and we post holed up to our thighs relentlessly in the bottomless wet snowpack - virtually every step of the 4 miles down. I literally laid down in the snow to die at one point and said "just leave me" and I meant it! I hadn't walked a 1/4 miles in the ten years prior and my legs were wracked with cramps from the day before. I remember I was so stiff when we finally arrived at the trailhead, I used a knife and cut my blue plastic rain pants & rain jacket off of my body. I slept for two days afterward.

I had never done anything that had challenged me so thoroughly. It got me hooked on backpacking for the first time at the age of 29 when I was in absolutely horrible physical condition. That summer I got a White Mountain Guide as a gift for my 30th birthday. It had maps and a list of the 48 4000 foot mountains of NH in the back, which made a perfect goal for me. I have lots of pictures from the IGOB trips, I'll have recount the tales in another post soon - we were one scary looking bunch!

Andy is a super cool guy -  the kind of person you want on your team. He has a very zen attitude and also holds the distinction of being the only person I ever knew who could comfortably hike UP a steep mountain smoking a cigarette. He had a tradition of staying at Lily Bay State Park every fall which is near the Golden Road. I met him there and we drove to the park to climb North Brother. I had moved on to the 4000 footers of Maine having completed New Hampshire.  It ended up snowing the whole way up and we had a VERY brief visit to the summit, which was getting blasted.

OK, OK - GET BACK TO BAXTER

I could see the summit ahead, with only 500 feet or so to gain in the last mile. The weather was perfect, a cool breeze blowing the entire time and the clouds were parting, making for nice pockets of sun to warm you up. I stopped for the first time and took a short break and drank a bunch of my water. From here the trees were getting shorter and in places there were some interesting stands of deciduous trees with very tall but thin, wispy trunks. I was really feeling lucky to be here today and to be moving quickly and easily. Some days I like to stop often, others I like to see the miles under my feet. Today was to be a miles day, but I planned to have a big break on the summits.

Soon I came to this large boulder and it's rusty iron ladder.

It must be a remnant of an old fire tower and it's very handy!

Up the ladder and I was on the summit of North Doubletop.

There is a nice tall boulder on top that gets you above the scrub trees and provides an unobstructed 360 degree view. The lakes and ponds - not to mention the view of Katahdin with the Hunt Trail & Pamola Peak clearly visible, the open ledges of Traveller to the northeast and the meandering Nesowadnehunk and it's oxbow below me - it was absolutely stunning.

Click for Hi-res panorama

I rested and enjoyed the view here for almost 30 minutes, I was getting chilled and had to put on my jacket and gloves but it felt so nice.


I was looking forward to the short walk across the ridge to the south peak. I took my time, looking down the steep face in places where the trail dropped of precipitously to the east. Katahdin was several miles away but loomed enormous in the distance. It had taken two hours to reach the north peak, so I had plenty of time to enjoy the view.

Summit Plaque

I made my way across to the south peak and was treated to an even better view of Katahdin in the distance.

Looking back to the north

I had spent a good long time on top and it was time to descend. I mean DESCEND. I mean 900' in 0.3 miles descend. Think Lion's Head winter trail steep or the AT south of Garfield steep. I'd used a rope on much less sketchy terrain before. I would definitely not recommend going down this way if you can help it. It was slow going for a while and then it was done and the trail gets much more reasonable, gradually losing elevation. After the trail crossing the stream several times - for a bit the trail IS the stream, it gets delightfully flat and easy once again for a couple miles.

The trail soon skirts the shore of Deer Pond and provides an increasingly stunning view back toward the mountain. I must have taken 20 photos as I made my way around the pond. There is a really fun crossing of the pond outlet on a couple of large logs that would be interesting in a rainy period.

I had a little over a mile to go and my heart was filled with the wind & sun and tremendous views, I was in heaven. I walked the last mile in silence, a tall open forest of skinny spruce and floor of ferns. I soon came out to the road stopping at the trail register to sign out. I was a little worried - did the ranger see my note or was I going to be the target of a rescue search in about 2 hours ?

I made my way up the Kidney Pond road toward the Park Tote road, stopping only to snap this shot of the mountain. I made it to the main road and began my journey back to camp. It was around eight miles back and the sun was getting ready to set soon. I have done a ton of night hiking, especially in the full moon. 

Hiking in the moonlight is such a magical experience. I once saw a moonbow on South Baldpate, not a rainbow ring around the moon but an actual rainbow at night caused by a full moon behind you at the correct angle.  I used to play music with an experienced sailor and he mentioned the moonbow in a tune of his, I asked him about it and he told me it's a rainbow that you see on the ocean when conditions are just right. The mist flowing over the ridge had provided the moisture, at first we saw a white line and as we curved around the ridge from North to South Baldpate we began to see colors until as we approached the final steps to South Baldpate summit we saw a perfect rainbow arching over the silhouette of the rocky peak before us. If Todd hadn't been there to confirm what I was seeing I would have thought I was having a flashback or something. We stood on the summit laughing out loud at the bright full spectrum rainbow rising out of the WIld River Valley, arching over the ridge and dropping down into Evans Notch.

Arne, Greg and I also ice climbed up Central Gully in Huntington Ravine in the full moon once - it was truly incredible! We didn't even use our headlamps until halfway up the gully when we entered it shadow. Once on top the stroll across the plateau to the Lion's Head Trail was unforgettable. Maybe it's the Cancer in me, but I love the moonlight. You really get out of life just what you put into it!

I was happily trudging up the road and passed the grave of the Unknown River Driver. At this point a car with Florida plates pulled up and slowed to a stop. The rolled down his window and asked "Would you like a ride?" He was clearly surprised when I responded "No thank you, I'm doing great, but I appreciate the offer!" He looked at me a little funny and said "Um, ok." and drove off. They soon thereafter passed me in the opposite direction. They were the first and last people I would see the entire day.

I stopped at a spot where there was a clear trail to the stream, my water was empty and my feet needed a break. I took of my shoes and soaked my feet n the cold water, which felt wonderful. I pumped a couple liters into my Camelbak and dried my feet, swapped out my footbeds and socks. I put on my long sleeve shirt and long pants and hat - I felt like a new man! I had 2 mini Snickers left for the road walk and enjoyed one here. I came to the clearing across from Doubletop where the Marston trail begin and looked back to see the moon just rising over the ridge. It was so nice to be walking along the base of the mountain I had just climbed, and soon the moon had taken over as the predominant light. Now and again it got very dark on the road when the trees were thick and I used my headlamp in the darkest bits so I wouldn't step on a skunk or something.

After one last break at Ledge Falls I set out for the last leg of my walk. Soon I smelled a campfire and new I was close. The sound of my footsteps tromping up the road started a family of campers in the field. I could see their headlamps searching in the night for the source of the sound. I may have played it up a bit with the stomping of my feet and even snuffed & snorted for extra effect. I made the left turn onto the road toward the rangers cabin, the moon had this open area fully lit and was breathtaking as it weaved in and out of low puffy clouds. I saw a note on my car, the ranger had checked me in and informed the gate, he even left me my change. Damn nice folks, these Baxter rangers.

Once I stopped walking I became cold very quickly. I really hadn't eaten much and the day was long and cold, I had been burning a ton of calories to keep warm and moving. I cooked up a Spicy Thai Chicken by moonlight and was ready for bed shortly thereafter. I had been assigned to a tent site, but there was no one else around so I stayed in the lean to again instead. I should have set up the tent, I froze my ass off all night long. The lean to so close to the stream made for a little too much moisture and I wasn't really generating enough heat. I awoke at 5 am, ate my cereal and powdered milk and then made for the car.

I ran the the heater for quite some time before the windows defrosted and I thawed out a bit. I took it easy on the drive out, as I knew I wanted to go to Park Headquarters in Millinocket to make my Chimney Pond reservation, which opens at 8am. Once again the road was barren, I only passed two cars on my way out.

I stopped and took a shot of the Knife Edge with the glow of the sunrise. I take all these shots with my iPhone, I really need to get a better camera. Soon I was at the gatehouse and on my way home once again.

Yet Another Beautiful Sunrise

I had yet another lousy breakfast at the Appalachian Trail Cafe. I need to get a burger next time. The lady at Park Headquarters was really cool and full of useful information. I made my reservation for Lean To #9 at Chimney and began the long ride home. After three Baxter trips in the month of August, I can honestly say I hope I can get back at least a couple more times before the winter - it so worth the effort it takes to get there. Get your ass up there as son as you can!


I'm thinking of doing a "nothing to prove" Presidential Traverse on Friday -  I have done it complete with all the summits already and I never want/need to stand on Mount Washington summit again. The full moon could be fun...