A Day In The Sun - Presidential Traverse 9/4 2009
The Presidential Range in the White Mountains of New Hampshire offer one of the few opportunities in the east to spend an entire day above tree line. There are several definitions to what constitutes a traverse, but it generally implies walking from the Appalachia trailhead to Route 302 - a minimum of 19.8 miles and 8500' of elevation gain. I define it as an incredible day in a beautiful place.
Friday was predicted to be a perfect weather day, clear with light winds. I was a little worried about the timing, I had two gigs on Thursday back to back and then Friday night I hoping to possibly go to Thomas Point Beach if I wasn't destroyed afterwards. They had a bluegrass festival this same weekend for the last 30 years, but not this year and people were planning to go to camp and pick anyhow.
My brother Aaron told me at the last minute that he could join me for the traverse and I was very pleased as he's fun to hike with and it made logistics a lot easier. I made a reservation in the bunkhouse at the Highland Center, which was reasonable and included breakfast. I normally would have tented somewhere, but every extra minute of sleep would be extremely valuable.
The plan was to leave Portland at 1am after playing at Gritty's drive to Crawford Notch and sleep for 3 hours, wake up and shower and hit the breakfast buffet in time to meet Aaron there at 7am. My band mates were kind enough to let me leave right after we stopped playing and I was grateful for that.
The ride up was uneventful other than getting a call from my band mates - I had left my sunglasses at the club. It would have been a long day doing all those miles above treeline with no shades, so I was so glad they told me so I could grab a cheap pair in North Conway at the 24 hour place there.
I arrived at the center, checked in and quietly tiptoed into the bunkhouse. All of the lower bunks were full so I climbed up into a bunk and fell asleep instantly. I woke up to my alarm at 6 sharp and hit the shower. In my world a shower is the equivalent of two extra hours of sleep. I was ready to head to breakfast as soon as it opened at 6:30. I chatted with a nice group of men on their annual guys weekend backpacking trip, headed over Mount Tom to Zealand and then the Thoreau Falls loop. There was a nice glow on Mount Tom as we headed for breakfast.
The buffet food was excellent but the quality clouded my vision a bit, as I made the ultimate rookie mistake at breakfast. I ate the dreaded "breakfast meat" without a minimum of 2 hours to digest before walking. I woke up starving and had eggs, a few potatoes, one pancake and two slices of lean bacon. I skipped the coffee as I knew that wasn't going to help me this morning.
Aaron arrived right on time and I grabbed my pack and hopped into his truck for the ride around to the Appalachia trailhead, on Route 2 about 30 miles from Crawford Notch. We both were drinking a lot of water trying to get hydrated, it's a losing battle on these days in the sun and wind for hours on end. In the end I ended up drinking 11 liters throughout the hike. I felt the unmistakeable churn of bacon and was a little worried.
We hit the trail at 8:15 after a last minute stop at Lowe's store. The first hour of the hike was absolute hell for me and I actually wondered if I was going to make it or not. I was still technically asleep, breathing hard and full of water and breakfast. The Valley Way, our route to Madison Hut is 3.8 miles and while it never really gets steep it ascends steadily and relentlessly.
Luckily I had been in this position before and knew to wait a bit before freaking out over it.
Several years ago I had completed the traverse with a great guy I met on Darren Almeida's excellent website Views From The Top. There is a forum there where people discuss hiking in in the Northeast & publish trip reports, etc. A longtime poster there with the screen name "Frodo" was looking for a partner for a traverse. We made one attempt on a marginal weather day and ended up descending the Airline off of Mount Adams, it was rainy and cold and utterly viewless. As we neared Madison hut Frodo told me about a very unfortunate incident he was involved in a while back. A hiker had a heart attack on Madison summit cone and passed away, Frodo heard his partner's emergency whistle and was first on the scene.
We returned again a few weeks later, and I had the same sick feeling as we started up the Valley Way. Frodo was pretty fast and the Valley Way starts with a bang and I felt awful for the first leg of the trip. Frodo was really cool and explained the concept of homeostasis to me. The short version is when you start a hike, your body has no idea what is going on and it starts to react to the apparent emergency situation. Once your body realizes that you are not in danger and this is going to continue for a while your metabolic systems calm down again and then you're fine. We ended up completing the trip with all the summits, but my feet were toast afterward. I expected to be destroyed afterward and had my tent setup in the woods but I surprisingly felt pretty good and ended up hiking Old Speck the next day in just under 4 hours.
Once we reached the Watson Path junction (by the way, the Watson Path is not a great choice to hit Madison summit, MUCH easier to hike to the hut then to the summit) at 2.4 miles I began to snap out of it and feel decent once again. Soon we passed the Valley Way tent site and were close to the hut.
We passed the "death sign" which reads: "WARNING! The area behind this sign has the worst weather in America. Many have died there even in the summer. If the weather is bad turn back now."
I take the alpine zone pretty seriously and am always prepared. I had a sleeping bag and mylar bivy sack in my pack in case one of us got hurt and had to spend the night out.
A few more steps and behold - Madison Hut! It had taken us under three hours to get here, not bad for 3.8 miles and almost 4000' of climbing.
The AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) operates a chain of huts in the nicest flat spots in the White Mountains. It's fairly pricey to stay there, but they are very convenient for getting water on the traverse! We stopped in and topped off our water supplies and chatted with the folks working there.
I told my brother the story about MADFEST, the annual croo party at Madison Hut. (Croo is the term used for the hut workers) They close the hut one day a year and have quite a party. My buddy's band played Madfest one year, the croo folks lugged all the instruments up the mountain on packboards - including the upright bass! He said it was crazy from the naked croo member hauling the KEG up the Valley Way, right to the end of the night.
After a while the trail gets flat again but the footing gets rougher. It wasn't long before we we reached Thunderstorm Junction, marked by an enormous cairn topped with beautiful white quartz. Soon we were headed down once again past Adams and toward Edmands Col.Friday was predicted to be a perfect weather day, clear with light winds. I was a little worried about the timing, I had two gigs on Thursday back to back and then Friday night I hoping to possibly go to Thomas Point Beach if I wasn't destroyed afterwards. They had a bluegrass festival this same weekend for the last 30 years, but not this year and people were planning to go to camp and pick anyhow.
My brother Aaron told me at the last minute that he could join me for the traverse and I was very pleased as he's fun to hike with and it made logistics a lot easier. I made a reservation in the bunkhouse at the Highland Center, which was reasonable and included breakfast. I normally would have tented somewhere, but every extra minute of sleep would be extremely valuable.
The plan was to leave Portland at 1am after playing at Gritty's drive to Crawford Notch and sleep for 3 hours, wake up and shower and hit the breakfast buffet in time to meet Aaron there at 7am. My band mates were kind enough to let me leave right after we stopped playing and I was grateful for that.
The ride up was uneventful other than getting a call from my band mates - I had left my sunglasses at the club. It would have been a long day doing all those miles above treeline with no shades, so I was so glad they told me so I could grab a cheap pair in North Conway at the 24 hour place there.
I arrived at the center, checked in and quietly tiptoed into the bunkhouse. All of the lower bunks were full so I climbed up into a bunk and fell asleep instantly. I woke up to my alarm at 6 sharp and hit the shower. In my world a shower is the equivalent of two extra hours of sleep. I was ready to head to breakfast as soon as it opened at 6:30. I chatted with a nice group of men on their annual guys weekend backpacking trip, headed over Mount Tom to Zealand and then the Thoreau Falls loop. There was a nice glow on Mount Tom as we headed for breakfast.
The buffet food was excellent but the quality clouded my vision a bit, as I made the ultimate rookie mistake at breakfast. I ate the dreaded "breakfast meat" without a minimum of 2 hours to digest before walking. I woke up starving and had eggs, a few potatoes, one pancake and two slices of lean bacon. I skipped the coffee as I knew that wasn't going to help me this morning.
Aaron arrived right on time and I grabbed my pack and hopped into his truck for the ride around to the Appalachia trailhead, on Route 2 about 30 miles from Crawford Notch. We both were drinking a lot of water trying to get hydrated, it's a losing battle on these days in the sun and wind for hours on end. In the end I ended up drinking 11 liters throughout the hike. I felt the unmistakeable churn of bacon and was a little worried.
We hit the trail at 8:15 after a last minute stop at Lowe's store. The first hour of the hike was absolute hell for me and I actually wondered if I was going to make it or not. I was still technically asleep, breathing hard and full of water and breakfast. The Valley Way, our route to Madison Hut is 3.8 miles and while it never really gets steep it ascends steadily and relentlessly.
Luckily I had been in this position before and knew to wait a bit before freaking out over it.
Several years ago I had completed the traverse with a great guy I met on Darren Almeida's excellent website Views From The Top. There is a forum there where people discuss hiking in in the Northeast & publish trip reports, etc. A longtime poster there with the screen name "Frodo" was looking for a partner for a traverse. We made one attempt on a marginal weather day and ended up descending the Airline off of Mount Adams, it was rainy and cold and utterly viewless. As we neared Madison hut Frodo told me about a very unfortunate incident he was involved in a while back. A hiker had a heart attack on Madison summit cone and passed away, Frodo heard his partner's emergency whistle and was first on the scene.
We returned again a few weeks later, and I had the same sick feeling as we started up the Valley Way. Frodo was pretty fast and the Valley Way starts with a bang and I felt awful for the first leg of the trip. Frodo was really cool and explained the concept of homeostasis to me. The short version is when you start a hike, your body has no idea what is going on and it starts to react to the apparent emergency situation. Once your body realizes that you are not in danger and this is going to continue for a while your metabolic systems calm down again and then you're fine. We ended up completing the trip with all the summits, but my feet were toast afterward. I expected to be destroyed afterward and had my tent setup in the woods but I surprisingly felt pretty good and ended up hiking Old Speck the next day in just under 4 hours.
Once we reached the Watson Path junction (by the way, the Watson Path is not a great choice to hit Madison summit, MUCH easier to hike to the hut then to the summit) at 2.4 miles I began to snap out of it and feel decent once again. Soon we passed the Valley Way tent site and were close to the hut.
We passed the "death sign" which reads: "WARNING! The area behind this sign has the worst weather in America. Many have died there even in the summer. If the weather is bad turn back now."
I take the alpine zone pretty seriously and am always prepared. I had a sleeping bag and mylar bivy sack in my pack in case one of us got hurt and had to spend the night out.
A few more steps and behold - Madison Hut! It had taken us under three hours to get here, not bad for 3.8 miles and almost 4000' of climbing.
The AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) operates a chain of huts in the nicest flat spots in the White Mountains. It's fairly pricey to stay there, but they are very convenient for getting water on the traverse! We stopped in and topped off our water supplies and chatted with the folks working there.
I told my brother the story about MADFEST, the annual croo party at Madison Hut. (Croo is the term used for the hut workers) They close the hut one day a year and have quite a party. My buddy's band played Madfest one year, the croo folks lugged all the instruments up the mountain on packboards - including the upright bass! He said it was crazy from the naked croo member hauling the KEG up the Valley Way, right to the end of the night.
We made our way toward Mount Adams and were treated to this great view back to Madison summit. We had decided to skip the summits on this trip and just enjoy a big day above tree line. It's a steady ascent toward Adams and we were moving along well. We saw a few large groups of hikers headed up the various ridges leading to Mount Adams. It actually has several distinct peaks, Sam Adams, John Q Adams, Adams 4 & 5 and the main summit itself.
So Far So Good!
Mount Washington and Mount Jefferson
We stopped at Edmands Col for a break and could see a group of over twenty hikers descending to the col and decided to wait for them to make it down the steep rocky section. Soon we found ourselves at a ledgy outcrop that holds one of the finest views in the Whites in my opinion.
Thanks to the nice passersby who snapped this shot for us!
We were feeling good and having an excellent time, the weather couldn't have been nicer and our spirits were high. We moved up steadily to the junction with the Six Husbands Trail. Weetamoo was the alleged daughter of Passaconaway, sachem of the Penacook Tribe until about 1660. Weetamoo eventually became a chieftain of the Wampanoag Tribe. She had six husbands the first of which was named Wamsutta, also memorialized with a trail name in the Great Gulf.
We cruised along toward Mount Clay and passed a few folks including a young gal in what could be best described as water shoes. It looked painful. The views just kept coming!
Looking Ahead...
Looking Back...
Soon we crossed the infamous Cog Railway. I have had a longstanding distaste for the Cog since my first traverse. I had seen the trains chugging up Washington from other peaks before, but it was the first time I had encountered it firsthand. The thick, black smoke that spewed into the air left a disgusting coating of chunks of coal and oily soot in what is an incredibly fragile alpine environment. Well folks, no longer! The cog now sports a biodiesel engine with no black plume. That really made me happy. Aaron & I chose not to follow the thru-hiker tradition of "mooning the Cog".
I decided long ago that I never need to set foot on the summit of Washington again, having done so several times prior so we enjoyed the Westside trail. After many rough miles, the path gets smooth - almost paved with flat rocks. We were nearing the halfway point, but had done more than half the work. Not only does the path become easier, but there is only one moderate climb left in the remaining miles. We could see Lakes of the Clouds hut and Mount Monroe in the distance and a solid train of hikers headed down from the summit. We stopped for a break and quickly made our way down the mile or so to Lakes of the Clouds to refill out water.
It was busy inside but it felt good to have nice cold water and a short break. I have never seen a nicer view from a privy before!
We left the hut feeling rested and ready for more. I knew we had it in the bag and was a little disappointed that most likely we wouldn't be above tree line for the sunset/moonrise. I suppose we could have waited it out a bit but it's not a good idea for me to stop that long on a long hike like this. Once I stop for a while it can be hard to start again, particularly on the downhills.
Mount Eisenhower
We rounded Monroe and kept up a great pace as we made our way past Mount Franklin headed for Eisenhower. We only encountered a few other hikers from here to the end of the trip. The Crawford Path enters an area of krummholz, the first real vegetation we had encountered in about 10 miles. We were getting close now! I recalled being here on the last traverse, the final climb up to Pierce summit drained me totally, even though it was only around 300' elevation gain.
We took a break and got rested up for the final climb of the day. I was feeling excellent, I had plenty of energy & nothing was hurting. Aaron's feet were hurting him but he was doing great. The view of the Dry River valley and the Montalban Ridge (where soft Corinthian leather comes from) were so beautiful and the peaks of across the valley in the Pemi were all visible as well. We hit the trail again and soon we found ourselves climbing the last steps to Mount Pierce.
Last View Back
It felt great to be on top of Pierce ten hours after we had left the car. We began our final leg of the journey, about three miles down to the notch. The light of the setting sun was nice as we made our way steadily down. I remembered a spot off the trail I had cowboy camped a long time ago, I met my first Canadian Jays that day as well and was so amazed that they would land in my hand - in search of a handout I would learn later on.
Aaron & I had chatted pretty steadily for the entire trip but we walked along quietly on the descent as the sun was setting in front of us. Aaron was ahead of me for a while and we met up down the trail a bit after I had passed a group of young men and an adult who I presumed was a camp counselor, or trip leader. We soon met up again and Aaron said the leader had asked them if this was the Dry River Trail! The Dry River Trail is several miles south of the Crawford Path, and has some lean-tos and places you could camp. The Crawford Path certainly does not. The idea of them showing up at Mizpah Hut after dark, on the Friday of Labor Day Weekend expecting to stay at the Naumann Tentsite was humorous to me.
We had to wonder how those campers didn't realize they were on the wrong trail - hehe
Next thing we knew, we had reached the end of the trail just as the last light was fading. We got the car, and stopped and soaked our feet in the pond, which felt great and drove back around to the Appalachia. Aaron had two Arnold Palmer half iced tea/half lemonade drinks in his cooler, which couldn't have tasted better. We headed for Gorham and had dinner at Mr. Pizza and then headed our separate ways home.
It turned out I wasn't going to go to Thomas Point Beach after all, and it was my buddy Tom's 40th birthday. I saw many old friends there, including my friend Jeff (who told me about the moonbow) and we stayed up ALL NIGHT playing music. I got home at 5:30am and realized I was 30 minutes from being awake for 24 hours. Sleep good.